走进翠云廊
2014-12-28  来源:剑阁县旅游局
 1 基本简介
1 Introduction
翠云廊是古蜀道的一段,而且是以“险”著称的剑门蜀道的一段。翠云廊古称剑州路柏,民间又称“皇柏”,亦称“张飞柏”,位于四川广元市剑阁县和绵阳市梓潼县,以剑阁县部分为主体部分。
Cuiyun Corridor is part of the ancient road of Shu (Sichuan) and boasts steepness. Located between Jiange county of Guangyuan city and Zitong county of Mianyang city in Sichuan province, Cuiyun Corridor was called Jianzhoulubai in ancient and Huangbai or Zhangfeibai. The part in Jiange county is the main body of the corridor.
广义的翠云廊,分为西段、北段、南段,是指以剑阁为中心,西至梓潼,北到昭化,南下阆中的三条翠云廊古柏路,在这三条蜿蜒三百里的道路两旁,全是修长挺拔的古柏林,号称“三百长城十万树”。据统计,剑门蜀道有古柏12351株,有规律地分布在344里的驿道两旁,其中剑阁境内7886株,梓潼496株,昭化144株,阆中17株,南江3808株,可见古柏树的主体还是在剑阁境内。三百里翠云廊,精华在北距剑门关7公里的大柏树湾。
In the broad sense , Cuiyun Corridor is divided into three parts extending respectively to the Zitong county in the west, the Zhaohua county in the north and the Langzhong city in the south with Jiange county as the center. Ancient cypresses stand on both sides of the three meandering roads stretching as long as three hundred li, known as “one hundred and thousand trees on the three hundred li great wall”. According to the statistics, there are 12,351 cypresses on the Jianmenshu Road, regularly distributing on both sides of the 344 li post road, specifically 7,886 in Jiange county, 496 in Zitong county, 144 in Zhaohua county, 17 in Langzhong city, and 3,808 in Nanjiang county. This can indicate that the main body of ancient cypress road lies in Jiange county. The essence of Cuiyun Corridor is Dabaishuwan or called Big Cypress Bay, seven kilometers away in the north of the town of Jianmenguan.
狭义的翠云廊指的就是这里的翠云廊景区。翠云廊景区是国家首批重点风景名胜区、国家重点文物保护单位剑门蜀道的核心景区之一,也是国家森林公园。三百里翠云廊最大、最有名气的几棵树都在这里。这里的古柏树虽然历经千古沧桑,仍然枝叶茂盛,生机盎然,它始于秦汉,完备于明,是罕见的人工造植的古老行道树群体,被誉为“蜀道灵魂”、“国之珍宝”。
Cuiyun Corridor means Cuiyun Corridor Tourist Resort which is listed as one of the first national key tourist resorts and one of the core resorts of Jianmenshu Road, the National Cultural Relic Protection Organization. It is also a National Forest Park where stand the biggest and most precious trees. Although these old cypresses have experienced many vicissitudes, they are brimming over with vigor and vitality and full of leaves and branches. Started in Qin (211 BC-206 BC) and Han dynasty (206 BC-220AD), the process of planting trees was finished in Ming dynasty (1368-1644). These unusual old cypresses are honored as “the soul of Shu road” and “national treasure”.
 
2 名称由来
2  Origin of the name
    翠云廊得名于清初剑州知州乔钵的诗。
Cuiyun Corridor is named after one of the poems of Qiaobo, the magistrate of Jianzhou (now Jiange county).
清康熙三年(1664),剑州知州乔钵在一首诗中写道:“剑门路,崎岖凹凸石头路。两行古柏植何人?三百里程十万树。翠云廊,苍烟护,苔花荫雨湿衣裳,回柯垂叶凉风度。无石不可眠,处处堪留句。龙蛇蜿蜒山缠互,传是昔年李白夫,奇人怪事教人妒。休称蜀道难,莫错剑门路。”从此,“翠云廊”这个充满诗情画意的名字便成了这段金牛古道的雅名。
In the third year of Kangxi in Qing dynasty (1664), Qiaobo wrote in his poem:”Jianmen road, built with stones, is bumpy and rugged. Who are the planters of the old cypresses on both sides of the road on which stand one hundred and thousand cypresses extending as long as three hundred li? Cuiyun Corridor is covered with dark green cloud. In the raining season, tree mosses and flowers can bewet the clothes of passersby who are accompanied by the fallen leaves of pasaniacuspidata and cool breeze. One can have a rest on each stone and leave marks or words everywhere. The meandering mountains look like snakes and dragons intertwining with each other, which is said to be described by Libai. Strange persons and anecdotes there attract people and make them green with envy. Don’t say the road to Shu is filled with barriers and don’t step on Jianmen road wrongly.” Since then, this Jinniu ancient road was elegantly called Cuiyun Corridor, a picturesque name.
其实在此之前,这条道还有一个气派的名字,叫做“皇柏大道”。那是因为秦始皇统一中国后,下令以咸阳为中心,修筑通达全国的驰道,在道两旁种上成排的松柏,用以显示天子的威仪,因此人们把秦朝所植的树称为“皇柏”,所以这条道又名“皇柏大道”。
As a matter of fact, however, this road has another gorgeous name called Huangbaidadao or the Road of Emperor Cypress before Cuiyun Corridor. The reason is that after the unification of China by Ch'in Shih Huang (the Emperor of Qin dynasty), he ordered to build chidao or called national road with Xianyang as the center and plant rows of cypress on both sides with the purpose of showing majesty. After that, the trees planted in Qin dynasty were called “emperor cypress” and so was the name of the road “the Road of Emperor Cypress”. 
3 植树历史
3 History of planting trees
     翠云廊的形成,历经2000余年。随着古蜀道的开拓和驿道整修,路旁留有自然生长的树木,也有大量的人工栽植的行道树,逐渐形成数百里的林荫大道。历史上翠云廊上有过七次大规模的植树活动。
Cuiyun Corridor has undergone over 2,000 years with the renovating of old Shu road and repairing of post road. The trees grown naturally and planted on the sides of the road gradually made the road a boulevard stretching as long as several li. Historically, there were seven large scale activities of planting trees on the Cuiyun Corridor.
秦朝
秦始皇统一中国后,下令以咸阳为中心,修筑通达全国的驰道,在道两旁种上成排的松柏,用以显示天子的威仪,“道宽五十步,三丈而树”。人们把秦朝所植的树称为“皇柏”,所以这条道又名“皇柏大道”。据林业专家考证,现翠云廊沿线胸径2米以上、树龄两千多年的古柏,应为秦朝所植,这是迄今所知这条路最早的植树记录。
1.Qin dynasty (211 BC-206 BC)
    After Ch'in Shih Huang unified China, he ordered to build chidao or called national road with Xianyang as the center and plant rows of cypress on both sides with the purpose of showing majesty. The width of the road is fifty bu (55 meters) and the distance between trees is three zhang (10 meters). Therefore, the trees planted in Qin dynasty were called “emperor cypress” and so was the name of the road “the Road of Emperor Cypress”. According to the forestry experts, the cypresses along the road, of which the diameter is over two meters, are planted in Qin dynasty and over 2,000 years old. This is recorded as the earliest planting activity ever on this road so far.
蜀汉
第二次对翠云廊大规模植树的是张飞。相传张飞当年为巴西(今阆中县)太守,军政往来频繁。当时的剑州(今剑阁)又是蜀都至中原的必经要地,为适应政治、军事上的需要,张飞令士兵及百姓沿驿道种树,军民同心协力,完成了植树义务。据考,翠云廊上胸径1.8米以上的古柏当是“张飞柏”了。
2.Shuhan period (221-263)
Zhangfei is the second motivator of planting trees on Cuiyun Corridor. According to legend, Zhangfei, then prefecture of Baxi (now Langzhong county), was busy with political and military affairs. To meet the demands regard to politics and military, Zhangfei ordered soldiers and civilians to plant trees along the post road in Jianzhou (now Jiange county), an important place linking the capital of Shu (now Chengdu) with the central plains. Uniting in a concerted effort, they finished planting trees. It is evidenced that the cypresses along the road, of which the diameter is over 1.8 meters, are planted under Zhangfei’s governance. 
东晋
第三次是东晋时期。因道教兴起,人们重视风水之术,而剑阁又是道教的发源地,于是大量栽植“风脉”树,尚书郎郭璞为此写了《种松记》刻于石碑。这碑到了宋代,由于风雨剥蚀,当地人又请大文人苏轼重书碑文,今碑刻仍存武连觉苑寺内。估计翠云廊上胸径一米七八左右的古柏就是这时所植。
3.Eastern Jin Dynasty (317-420)
The third planting activity is in Eastern Jin Dynasty. At that time, the Taoist was originating and springing up in Jiange county and emphasis was imposed on fengshui or geomancy, and hence many trees were planted there. They were called fengmai trees related with geomantic omen. Guopu, then Shangshulang, wrote A Record of Planting Trees which was inscribed on the stele to commemorate the planting activity. Because of the windy and rainy denudation, the locals requested Sushi, the great writer, to rewrite the epigraphy which is still preserved in Jueyuan temple in the town of Wulian. It is estimated that the cypresses of which the diameter is about 1.7-1.8 meters are planted at that time.
北周
第四次是北周时期,当时为计里程,曾在道旁每一里垒一土堆作标记,但这种方法容易被风雨冲毁,后来改为每一里种树一株,以一里一树计算里程。但当时以什么树计里,史无记载。
 4.Northern Zhou Dynasty (557-581)
The fourth planting activity is in Northern Zhou Dynasty. In order to make the mile-meter along the road, hills of earth were heaped, but they were easily washed by rain. Instead, trees were planted for that purpose with a distance of one li (half a kilometer) between two trees. There is no record about which kind of tree planted then in history books.
唐代
第五次是唐代。相传唐天宝年间(公元742—756年),杨贵妃喜欢吃川南荔枝,玄宗皇帝命人快马加鞭,连夜运送。为保持荔枝鲜味,令百姓沿途种植柏树,剑阁人民又在原有基础上进行了栽补,使翠云廊初具规模。这一时间的翠云廊又被称为“爱情大道”。
5.Tang Dynasty (618-907)
   The fifth is in Tang Dynasty. During Tianbao (742—756), Yang Yuhuan, then Magnificent Concubine, liked eating leechee from south of Sichuan. Emperor Xuanzong ordered his subordinates to transport leechee at top speed even in the evening. To keep leechee fresh, civilians were ordered to plant cypresses along the road. And people of Jiange county planted supplementally, making Cuiyun Corridor to take shape. At the moment, Cuiyun Corridor was called “the Road of Love” .
北宋
第六次是北宋时期。宋仁宗诏令:“自凤州(今陕西宝鸡陕西凤县)至利州(今广元),剑门关直入益州(成都)道路,沿官道两旁,每年栽种土地所宜林木。”这又是一次大规模植树,并且延伸到了整个蜀道。
6.Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127)
The sixth is in Tang Dynasty. Emperor Renzong made an imperial order: “Trees should be planted annually along the road linking Feng county (now Baojifeng county, Shaanxi province) with Lizhou county (now Guangyuan city) and the road connecting Jianmenguan county to Yizhou.” This is another large scale planting activity involving the whole Shu road. 
明朝
第七次是明朝。明正德十三年(1518),广西人李璧任剑阁知州,对南至阆中、西至梓潼、北至昭化的官道进行了整治,并沿路大量补植柏树。翠云廊从此形成了宏伟规模。
7. Ming Dynasty (1368-1644)
   The seventh is in Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). In the thirteenth year of Zhengde (1518), Libi, then magistrate of Jiange county from Guangxi province, ordered to renovate the state road extending to the Langzhong city in the south, the Zitong county in the west and the Zhaohua county in the north and supplement to plant cypresses. Since then, Cuiyun Corridor formed a great scale.
其实,以上所讲七次植树只是历史上规模较大、影响深远的植树活动而已,剑门蜀道上差不多每个朝代均有植树,只是缺乏记录罢了。
Actually, trees are planted almost in every dynasty on the Shu road to Jianmenguan, of which the seven are recorded because they have large scale and deep influence in history.
 
4 植树原因
4 The Reasons of Planting Trees
追溯历史,从古至今道路交通,与政治、军事、经济、文化紧密相关。《华阳国志•蜀志》记载:“诸葛亮相蜀,凿石架空为飞梁阁道,以通行道”。古也有“栈道千里,通于蜀汉”之说。他们在必经的悬崖陡壁地段,凿岩打孔,上中下三层插桩,上层搭棚遮阴避雨和防止飞石坠落伤人,中层铺木行人,下层斜插支撑,每隔一段修亭供人歇息。这么浩大的阁道工程,需要采伐大量木材。那么从作用上看,古驿道树群首先是植树表道,起路标作用;二是以树计里,里程碑的作用;三是保护道路,防止雨水冲刷路基;四是便於修栈道就近伐木取材;五是为行人提供行路方便、遮阴避暑。
Historically, from ancient times to present, roads are closely related to politics, military, economy and culture. In the third volume of Records of Huayang Kingdom, Records of Shu, it records that Chu-Ko Liang once in Shu commanded to build roads crossing the mountains and pavilions by hewing the rocks of mountains, in order to make convenience for transportation. Also, we have the old sayings that the roads to Shu are thousands of miles. The ancient people hewed rocks and cut holes on the edge of cliffs where they planted three layers of wooden piles. The first layer was for shelter from rain and falling rocks; the second was for the road to walk through; the third was the support. At intervals, there were pavilions built for short rest. Therefore, much wood was needed for such great construction. In terms of the functions, firstly the trees were the route markings to guide people; secondly they were milestones to show the distances; thirdly, they protected the roadbed from rains; fourthly they provided wood for the construction of the roads; fifthly they shaded passengers from sun.
 
 
5 历代保护
5 Protection in All Ages
翠云廊古柏能存至今日,与历代严令保护有很大关系。自有驿道和行道树以来,老百姓便以护路爱树为己任。这种优良传统沿袭到现在。山区人民把修桥补路、栽桑植柏看成一种美德,看成是为后人造福,因而也自有爱路护树的良好习惯。
The survival of these ancient cypress trees along Cuiyun Gallery owes to the protection in all ages. Since the time when post roads and roadside trees came into being, civilians have been tending the roads and the trees voluntarily, which has become a convention passed down till today. The people in the mountains consider repairing roads and bridges and planting trees as merit which can benefit the future generations, so they formed a good habit of protecting roads and trees.
 
历代统治者也都很重视对驿路驿树的保护。秦汉至唐就设有专人管理,到了北宋又颁布了管理行道树条例,据《宋史》记,南宋时还发布了“禁四川采伐边境林木”的诏令。明代又有“官民相禁剪伐”的政令。史载明正德年间,剑州州官在交接任时,相互要清点行道树,把植树护路的情况作为一项政绩来考核,作为升迁的重要标准之一。清代官府还常派差役沿路巡察护树情况。
Governors in past dynasties also attached importance to the protection of the roads and the trees. In Qin and Han Dynasties, the appointed men were put in charge of protection. In Northern Song Dynasty, some regulations were promulgated to protect roadside trees. According to History of Song Dynasty, a regulation that prohibited lumbering in the border areas of Sichuan was promulgated. In Ming Dynasty, there was a decree that officials and civilians should keep watch on each other not to cut down trees. And according to the history, in Zhengde years of Ming Dynasty, in Jianzhou when the predecessor handed over to the new governor, they were to check the roadside trees together, because whether they could be promoted officially depended on their performance on protecting roads and trees. In Qing Dynasty, the government sent regular patrols to inspect the circumstance of tree protection. 
 
 
1935年,由于川陕公路的修筑,古柏损坏惨重,民众甚为痛愤,后来蒋介石知道后,也下令在古柏上悬挂木牌,发出了“砍伐皇柏者枪毙”的禁令。建国后,政府十分重视对翠云廊古柏的保护,采取果断措施,禁止任何人砍伐,颁布了古柏管理条例,还先后三次清理登记、挂牌编号;对枯萎和处于危险环境的古柏进行了加固维护;每年都要进行群众性防病、治虫、补植幼柏等工作。
In 1935, the ancient cypress trees were damaged greatly due to the construction of Sichuan-Shanxi road, which roused people’s wrath. Knowing this, Chiang Kai-shek ordered to hang the board saying “No Logging; Offenders Shot Death!” on the trees. After the foundation of the People’s Republic of China, the government has paid much attention to the protection of the ancient cypress along Cuiyun Gallery. Many measures have been taken and a series of regulations have been promulgated to prohibit anyone to cut down these cypress trees. Registration and numbering were done three times successively. Besides, the withered cypress trees and those in danger have been strengthened manually. The works of mass prevention of disease, pest control and complementary planting of young cypress are done every year. 
 
正是历代官民的保护,“三百里程十万树”的景致才得以形成,也正是历代保护措施的实行,才使翠云廊古柏延年益寿,更加生机盎然,茂盛苍翠。
It is the protection from officials and ordinary people in all ages that keeps the scene of one hundred thousand cypress trees along the road of 300 miles. It is the protective measures taken in all ages that ensure the longevity of the ancient cypress trees along Cuiyun Gallery and make them lush and full of life.
 
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